These last two gloriously sunny weeks have been spent with my Aunt, Uncle and cousins in South Africa and have seen a smash and grab by a Baboon, a mountain climbed, a wonderful safari with a most extraordinary moment, the most delightful ice cream ever eaten, spider monkey delights, inspiration found and direction delivered.
Mum and I had been invited to South Africa by Aunt Tedda and Uncle David with promises of adventure and sunshine. Once I looked at the cost of the flights I was pretty set that I was unable to afford to go but the family would hear none of it. Once I had it confirmed by my Oncology team that, with some steroids to prevent the brain swelling, I was fit to fly and that I could take the required injections to protect me from disease in South Africa, my family rallied around to rustle up the cost of an airfare between them. Aunt Tedda and Uncle David were accommodating and feeding me so I was all set to go to Africa. I had been to North Africa several times but never the central or Southern African countries. The Africa about which I had always dreamed of as a boy so I was thrilled to be able to go, all thanks to the generosity of my family.
The flight out was severely delayed which made for a much longer travelling time than we had been expecting but we got there eventually to be met at the airport and driven to our new home for the next couple of weeks in Avondrust, Noerdhoek, just to the South of Cape Town. The immediate impression of South Africa was of a country full of people that loved to smile, that felt safe but had a surprising undercurrent of theft, some of it violent, driven by rampant poverty so visible in the shanty towns at the side of the road while, as summer started to burst into full bloom a heavy scent of flowers was permanently hanging in the air in its pungent but sickly sweet aroma. South Africa in late Spring had its own smell that will remain vivid in my mind. From now on, each time I smell Lavender I will be brought right back to this beautiful place, surrounded by tall mountains, fields of horses and agriculture with wild Guinea Fowl and Peacocks running amock in their noisy but beautiful way among the fields as birds of the brightest colours and some with the most extraordinarily long tails flitted their flitty flight among the hedgerows searching for insects while storks, Ibis and Heron searched for insects at the edges of local waterholes. It was hot but not overbearing. Cool at night so deep sleep was possible while making for lovely cool mornings warming quickly in the rising sun.
The first few days were spent exploring the local area of Cape Town and the Cape of Good Hope. Bordered by the Atlantic and the Indian ocean the views of turquoise seas and miles long sandy beaches were true to the romance of the cape while the wind whipping around the cape brought to life the tales of daring do and devastating ship wrecks in these treacherous waters peppered with the broken wrecks of many ships and even a submarine.
We went on to a beach for a picnic. Shelter from the wind found in the lee of some large dunes the picnic rugs were laid, the food spread out so we could start to eat before suddenly, from behind us came the shout of ‘BABOON!’ from a Ranger. Before I could react this enormous great bull of a baboon ran right past my legs and jumped the low wall on which I was standing right into the middle of the children to grab a family bag size packet of cheesy puffs. He ran off on all fours looking over his shoulder all the while making his snarling barking sound, baring his large teeth in a snarl to warn us to avoid any attempt to intervene. Not that any of us could. He moved so fast that he was away before even all the children could be lifted out of harm’s way so instead we stood and laughed in shocked disbelief as this animal of the mountains ran off to a slope well within view of us and calmly, in an unmasked attempt to bait us, sat on his rude backside and started to tuck into the cheesy puffs with remarkable ease. I was so looking forward to the cheesy puffs treat but the treat of such a close encounter with a Baboon in angry mood was more than enough reward. Sadly more Baboons started to come so fearing for our safety the Ranger moved us on but at no great loss. We found a greater view of the tropical looking sea and had a wonderful lunch in the sunshine.
The next couple of days were spent getting to know my young cousins. SoSo (9) fostered by my incredible, determined and loving cousin Leonora when Soso’s Mum could no longer cope has a wonderfully bright outlook on life with a wonderful sense of humour. A keen dancer I was lucky enough to be able to go and watch a rehearsal for an upcoming performance. It was brilliantly high energy delivered with rigid discipline enforced by the dance teacher and choreographer and was so very impressive to watch. It reminded me so much of Heather dancing in her performance of Grease just before I flew over and brought a slight tear to my eye as I witnessed the blossoming of a young girl from a troubled start in life right here in front of me. Then there is Zebedee (3) who is one of the most intelligent and determined young boys I think I have ever met. Loving and inquisitive he was a delight to spend time with as he explores life in all its forms, asking the most intelligent questions, and finally Minty who at just 15 months is far and away the youngest but loved and doted over by her elder brother and sister and as a result never stops smiling or making hearts melt with cuddles and well-rehearsed facial expressions guaranteed to make one burst into laughter, only to be joined by Minty’s very own husky giggle. Many such laughing fits were enjoyed by all. Then of course we had to have ice cream on the beach followed by shoes off, chinos rolled up and hat and sun cream donned jumping the waves in the sea. I of course came out soaked to the skin but full of laughter as I realised how terribly British I must have looked on the beach with all but a spotted handkerchief on the head or a pair of wellies on, as we played such games in the waves.
Later in the week it was time to climb Table Mountain. With sound instruction on the route up from wonderful friends of Leonora’s, Nathan and Tasha, and joined by another friend of Leonora’s, Chester, we set off on the hottest day so far to scale the 3,000 feet of the mountain. The route was well prepared on this ‘must do’ for any visitor to Cape Town so the climb consisted of rock cut step followed by rock cut step all the way up the mountain. It was an impressive feat of engineering but made for a physically challenging if not rather dull climb up the mountain but the rewards were stupendous. We met so many happy people on the way up and each time we stopped for breath and some water on this hard slog up the mountain, dripping profusely with sweat, we were able to turn and admire the most wonderful of dramatic views. Once at the top we were joined by Mum and Leonora and the gang who came by Cable Car and joined us for lunch as we surveyed the stunning views of the inviting seas while we watched for Whales. It was a perfect moment broken only by the thought of the descent down those deep and knee jarring rocky steps on the way down. We had however done the hard bit. We had climbed up it so why not take the cable car down? A great decision made more fun by the excitement of the children as we descended.
Now it was Mum and son time with my Aunt Tedda and David who took us around some of the clever little markets that abound around Cape Town. Full of the fascinating African art and clever models and carvings done there was so much to see as we wandered the market stalls being encouraged to buy with promises of good deals and sure enough, I found what I needed for presents for Heather and James and Allie and not forgetting of course my downstairs neighbours from the flats, Bob and Margaret, who do so much for me to look after my flat while I am away. Shopping done and postcards bought in typical male double quick shopping time I found a coffee stall that made me the most delightful decaf Mocha. I settled on the grass in the sunshine to watch a jazz quartet that would rival anything to be found in Ronnie Scotts in London. The drummer was one of the most gifted I had heard, the base player absolutely on message, the saxophonist the wonderfully talented character and leader of the band that he needed to be and the female pianist also truly gifted as her heavenly voice, perfect for jazz, struck Gold with every piece that they performed. As Mum shopped I sat, drank coffee and enjoyed this wonderful atmosphere of music while at the same time I watched a young Muslim couple attempting to sell ice cream rolls from their stall. In the 30 minutes of music before the break not one person had gone to their stall. I had finished my coffee, had a numb bum and needed to stretch my legs so it was time to find out what an ice cream roll was. I wandered up and asked the question. This delightful couple in their mid twenties burst into life as they explained the technique of the ice cream roll, an idea which came originally from Indonesia and as the young lady helped me select one of the many fillings I could have (clearly had to be Nutella, I had already had Blueberries on my cereal for breakfast!) the young gentleman set to work, on the cold plate made super cold by liquid Nitrogen, making Nutella ice cream right there in front of me out of Nutella and cream that he chopped and mashed up and chopped and mashed up and chopped and mashed up with the Nutella with scrapers so incredibly quickly as this concoction froze almost immediately. Much like a pancake maker he formed a round circle of this still slightly malleable ice cream, which immediately froze, before then scraping it up into half a dozen 3 inch wide rolls of ice cream which were then popped into a tub. As he was doing this and I asked more and more questions of them both, a crowd formed rapidly around me. This stall, which for much of the morning seemed to stand empty had suddenly burst into life for this young couple trying to make a living. This was ingenious and they so deserved a good day of business so this was clearly, and most genuinely was, the best ice cream I had ever tasted as I watched, with a smile growing on my face, a crowd building around their stall form into a long queue all wanting to try their wares.
Another day was one of the most inspirational that I have had in many years. It was a ferry trip to Robben Island with Mum, Leonora and Chester to go and learn more about the horrors of Apartheid and it’s oppression, the pain that was felt by so many during its enforcement and the pain that was felt during its breaking. At the same time I was learning so much more about the qualities as an inspirational leader of this man, Nelson Mandela, as he led the fight for freedom inspiring many from his enforced hard labour mining lime from the quarry on the island. The tour was brilliantly orchestrated and delivered by former inmates of Robben Island. We learned first-hand of the austere regime led on the island with many hardships faced while also learning of the extraordinarily clever ways in which they were able to pass messages to each other around the prison on news from the outside while at the same time smuggle in contraband, sometimes with the help of the prison officers. As I learned more and more I became more and more surprised as to how a country that had suffered such pain over centuries of warfare in a bid to secure the colony for imperial powers, followed by many many decades of oppression of white over Black and Coloured during apartheid. The more I learned, the more I didn’t understand and the more saddened I became by the stories of oppression that unfolded. So how was it now, just 40 years later, that I was able to walk around this harrowing island of stories and enjoy this beautiful country of South Africa in which nearly everybody smiled? Despite cultural differences and 11 different languages, nearly all rubbed shoulders together and made South Africa work. It wasn’t perfect but neither is the UK or any developed nation but South Africa has a growing sense of confidence as it looks towards the future. The positivity was palpable and then I learned how. A prison officer joined our guide. He was a prison officer at the time of Mandela and was well known by our guide’s time at the prison. The key message that they had as they joked with each other of their experiences at the hands of each other in this place, was the key message that was carried throughout South Africa as apartheid was abandoned and democracy took hold. It was one of forgiveness. As long as each person told the truth about their misdemeanours in order that lessons may be learned for the future each person accused of atrocity or law breaking, whether white or black or coloured was given amnesty by the nation and forgiven by the people. It was that spirit of forgiveness that has allowed this beautiful country to flourish.
Our guide, Thulani, told us of wonderful moments like the reunion at the lime quarry after Mandela’s release in which each former prisoner gathered a stone of different colours, black and white and brown and built a cairn with each rock representing the South African nation: Different colours, different races, different creeds. In other words Diversity. Then Thulani finished with a lovely yet very simple phrase which is so true and relevant to us all. ‘Bitterness is the enemy of hope’
While I learned of the deprived, disadvantaged and disengaged childhoods of so many of these young inmates I was further encouraged to look towards my desire to crack on with trying to deliver the Future Nation Foundation for the youth of the UK, but as Mum and I walked back to the boat deep in thought with Leonora and Chester our conversation turned to our current situation in the world. Of Russian sabre rattling, of ISIS threats to the world order, and of the undeniable and rapidly growing threat to world order and security posed by climate change, which could well lead to ‘resource wars’ without international leadership and intervention. As the United States of America goes through the pain of its presidential elections, and Europe through the pain of Britain’s exit from Europe, it was clear to us that what the world needed right now was a leader of Nelson Mandela’s calibre to inspire and lead the world’s nations into a unified voice of action to stem these significant threats but without resource to war. There has to be another way to find a way to support the world’s poorest through the ravages of climate change while at the same time finding resolution to the different threats posed by Russia and ISIS. We have the capability internationally and we have the organisation through the United Nations but what we thought was lacking was an inspirational and unifying voice of a world leader. A leader unbound by political norms and party expectations. A leader unshackled by the language of diplomacy. A leader who standing independent of faith, nation state and party was free to say what needs to be said, in such a way, as to inspire and create a new world order working together for the harmony of mankind, in which the current threats become opportunity to resolve the long growing and deep routed causes of these threats. An independent world leader uncorrupted by religious, national, political, power base and finance. A man with no power riven from establishment but all powerful as furnished by the will of the world’s people inspired by his vision and rhetoric. As I reflected on this stark gap, around the walls of the museum was written a quote made by Nelson Mandela.
I read it as it was written, in the context of South Africa but rewrite it here for you this evening, adapted by me, in the context of the world’s threats. ‘As long as there is a spark of hope or energy in me, I shall fight with courage for the freedom of all the world irrespective of colour, nationality or creed. Never again, never again, never again, never again, never again, never again, never again, never again, never again shall mankind be shackled. We are fighting for the noblest cause on earth, the freedom of mankind. We have the whole world on our side. We have the lessons learned from history on our side. We will win. It is my collective hope that the collective response of all who make the pilgrimage to a different way of dealing with these burgeoning threats will be a united voice saying never again.’
Then Nelson Mandela said something even more profound, ‘The world is truly round and seems to start and end with those we love.’
I wasn’t sure what the answer to this looming gap in leadership was and this conundrum stayed with me throughout the rest of my trip. I wasn’t sure what I could do until, this morning, in which I ventured in to the combined faith prayer room in Heathrow airport on arrival back and found this prayer. A prayer that is to become part of my morning and evening prayer routine:
‘Lord of all creation, we stand in awe before you, impelled by visions of the harmony of man. We are children of many traditions – inheritors of shared wisdom and tragic misunderstandings, of proud hopes and humble successes. Now it is time for us to meet – in memory and truth, in courage and trust, in love and promise.
In that which we share, let us see the common prayer of humanity;
In that which we differ, let us wonder at the freedom of man;
In our unity and our differences, let us know the uniqueness that is God.
May our courage match our convictions, and our integrity match our hope.
May our faith in you bring us closer to each other.
May our meeting with past and present bring blessings for the future.
Amen.‘
Back at Aunt Tedda’s house I took the dog for a walk and bumped into their next door neighbour Dr Bernard Brom of creating health .co.za. (A website that I would thoroughly recommend visiting for further learned guidance in beating disease) It was a wonderful meeting in which we walked and talked and I found much encouragement as I told him my story of my healing. He acknowledged that he was sure that I was healed. That I had stumbled, through a process of trial and error, over the perfect combination for healing: exercise, diet and faith. And here he said something quite startling. That while he couldn’t agree that God had healed me, what he could see was how my faith in my faith had helped heal me through the positive physical healing responses created by the endorphins such positivity creates. What struck me most was a question in which I searched my own understanding of my faith. Wasn’t this what Jesus had been trying to tell us through his stories of healing in the Bible? That we have to truly believe that we can be healed, that God truly can heal us, if we are to be healed. But that we mustn’t sit there and wait for it. That we have to take positive action in our own lives to receive it. To treat our body as a temple with good food and exercise, to take advantage of the God given knowledge and wisdom that have led to improving treatment regimes while connecting our mind to positive thoughts of healing through our faith. Connecting my mind to uncluttered and positive thoughts of healing was something that I found hard to find in the hustle and bustle of a busy family home but found so much easier in the peace found on the hills and mountains of Scotland surrounded by God’s glorious creation. In other words healing is entirely possible by taking a more holistic approach. I know that my simplistic interpretation of Jesus’ teaching on healing is not necessarily supported in pure Theological terms but it made so much sense to me until I received yet another warning. Bernard, based on years of experience, told me that I mustn’t stop what I am doing. Keep doing what you are doing because it is healing you and you must continue until such time as you have had the experts confirm that you are healed. This was becoming a repeated message given to me on a number of occasions over the last couple of months and gave me great cause for further prayer for guidance.
Shortly after the inspiration found in Robben Island I took Mum and I on Safari at the Aquila Game Reserve. It was a long held ambition of Mum’s and a boyhood dream of mine inspired further by my volunteering at the Blair Drummond Safari Park in which I learned of the many threats facing our rich diversity of wildlife on which our very own life support systems interconnect and rely. We had a wonderful Safari led by the wonderful Zimbabwean Ranger Kensington and in which he found for us and taught us so much more about: White Rhino, Hippopotamus, Flamingos, Ostrich, Elephant, Springbok, Lion, Burchel Zebra, Southern Giraffe, Elan, Oryx Gazelle and the Black Wilderbeast.
I so loved my time on Safari that after lunch I booked myself on a group horseback safari only to find that there was no group. It was to be a safari of just me and the ranger who was another delightful Zimbabwean, Shadreck. I was mounted on ‘Blondie’ and then we were off. As we rode towards the savannah surrounded by these steep mountains we chatted and got to know each other better, forming a good relaxed relationship. As we left the relative security of the compound I suddenly became very aware that I was sat upon a very attractive meal in the open rather than surrounded by an iron cage on a truck. I wasn’t frightened as I was in the hands of this very experienced ranger, but I was very aware of our vulnerability. Every sense tuned into our environment and listened. Conscious of my poor hearing I listened hard. And then I heard it. The beating heart of Africa. As a boy my Aunt Janet had told me how, in the wilderness, away from the noise and hustle and bustle of life, the beating heart of Africa could be heard. As a boy and with a head full of the boyhood stories of Africa from comic books and cartoons I always presumed that she meant the tribal drums beating and sending out their messages over this vast savannah. But on this horse back safari I understood it. My head was on full alert and my heart was searching for answers, my mind whirring around the ‘what ifs’ when I heard it. I felt it. My pulse quickened and almost as if my body was bringing itself inline with the new beat of this African heart I felt it vibrate ever so gently through me: Bobom, Bobom, Bobom, Bobom, the beating heart of Africa. We had just passed close, very close to some White Rhinos and perhaps the adrenaline of that moment contributed to my connection but I told Shadreck of my sense of connection. He asked, ‘And what do you think it might be telling you sir?’ My thoughts turned immediately to my healing about which there was so much uncertainty. So I told him my story and how I felt that God had healed me but there seemed to be so much uncertainty which I found confusing, disappointing and unsettling especially as I hadn’t planned on success and still had no idea how this story was going to end. Shadreck became most suddenly very animated and his face shone like a beacon when he exclaimed in his wonderful lilting Zimbabwean accent ‘I knew that our Lord Jesus Christ was riding with you today. I knew it!’
We talked about Jesus for the rest of the ride and we weren’t eaten, or charged by Rhino, or Hippo, or Wilderbeast, or Elephant. We just plodded along, deep in thought, and felt the heart of Africa beating as we surveyed the mountains and roaming wildlife. Later Shadreck turned to me and told me. ‘Archie, God has saved you for a reason. You have to keep doing what you are doing and stop worrying about the future. Just take your time and listen hard to find out what that reason for your healing is, but I am certain that you have been healed for a reason.’ It was a magical time and a powerful message delivered in the rich Zimbabwean accent of my Ranger and guide.
So I am listening and listening hard. My Oncologist told me not to jump to conclusions, that my clear scans might not necessarily mean that I am healed, just that they might have bought me a couple of years before the tumour comes back. That only time will tell. The vicar at Sinora’s church in London warned me not to jump to conclusions. Clearly experience was bighting as he advised me to not claim any healing until such time as I have been given an all clear by my brilliant Oncology team. Just keep doing what you are doing. Give it time and don’t jump to conclusions no matter how compelling that conclusion might be. Friends and family as well as followers of the challenge have advised me in significant numbers to not rush into things. To keep doing what I am doing. To give it time and be sure before changing tack. Bernard has just this last week in South Africa said the same thing.
So I am hearing and understanding. I have to keep going on the challenge, no matter what, until my healing is confirmed by my brilliant Oncology team in the Western General Hospital Edinburgh. I do have a book to write as I have promised to do and we are rapidly moving into deep winter. I climbed snowy mountains and rode icy back roads during treatment as frankly I was in a do or die situation. I had been told that time was short so I had nothing to lose. Now however I have far more hope for the future while at the same time have a story to tell that may help many others in the future. So I am going to adopt the frenetic physical pace I pushed through during the first few months of Chemotherapy that kept me fit and strong against the threat of Chemo triggered Osteoporosis while at the same time giving me ample time to put all the elements in place needed to start the challenge on a solid cost free footing. So I will sit hard on what remains of the beast and continue to chip away at anything that might be left with a strong belief in the ability of my faith, physical exercise, good food, support from family and friends, the focus of the challenge and my brilliant Oncology team to heal me completely in this wonderful holistic approach. While doing all that, I will write the book that I have promised to write to give me greater opportunity to take to the hills in the relative safety of the warmer months of Spring/Summer next year. It is a significant challenge but one that is achievable with a determination to succeed and very much one that I have.
The final few wonderful days in South Africa in which my mind was greatly calmed were spent soaking up the rich culture and sights and sounds of Africa while enjoying such precious moments with my family. We finished with a delightful 10 course sea food based meal done in true African style in which we were fed like the biblical feeding of the 5 thousand from remarkably meagre rations that just seemed to keep going and going but that led to perfect portion sizes to sustain the will for the 10 different portions interspersed with more frolicking in the sea and laughter with my cousins. Another day Mum and I then frolicked with the spider monkeys in the Cape Town Bird World making for many happy and shared memories between Leonora, Soso, Zebedee, Minty, Mum and I.
I left South Africa inspired and encouraged and hearing the message I was supposed to hear before. It is a beautiful country, full of beautiful people on a continent so full of growing hope and potential for the future. It is not perfect, none of us are, but it is an excellent example of how a nation state can overcome much adversity. Thank you Aunt Tedda and David, Leonora, Soso, Zebedee, Minty, Nathan and Tasha for your wonderful hospitality. Thank you South Africa for smiling at me.
The challenge continues.
Yours aye
Archie
Beat the Beast!